Capri NYSE: CPRI executives said the company is entering a more focused phase after the sale of Versace, with management emphasizing growth plans for Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo, store renovations, tighter product assortments and a stronger balance sheet.
Speaking at Bernstein’s Retail Forum in New York, Capri Chief Executive Officer John Idol and Chief Financial Officer Tyler Reddien outlined the company’s efforts to reposition Michael Kors, expand Jimmy Choo and return the business to growth. The discussion was hosted by Bernstein analyst Aneesha Sherman.
Idol said Capri ended the year with “a little over $200 million in debt,” giving the company flexibility to invest in its remaining two brands. He said management believes Michael Kors can return to approximately $4 billion in revenue from an estimated $2.93 billion this year, while Jimmy Choo can grow to $800 million from roughly $600 million.
Michael Kors Repositioning Remains in Early Stages
Idol said Capri decided to take a “more modern lens” to Michael Kors in an effort to attract younger consumers, including Gen Z and parts of the millennial cohort. The company has leaned into the “Jet Set” concept, which Idol described as a mindset tied to travel, style and aspiration.
The company has also shifted its marketing strategy through “hotel stories” campaigns, including Ibiza, Rome and Saint-Tropez, while increasing its use of social media. Idol said Michael Kors now has more than 400 influencers working with the brand.
On product, Idol said Michael Kors has narrowed its full-price focus around three handbag icons: Nolita, Hamilton and Laila. Those groups now represent about 50% to 60% of full-price sales, he said. The company has reduced SKUs, sharpened storytelling and introduced more accessories priced under $200 to appeal to younger shoppers.
Idol said Michael Kors had raised prices by 20% to 25% coming out of COVID, which contributed to lower sell-throughs and higher markdowns. The brand has since moved closer to its historical pricing in the full-price channel, which he said has improved full-price sell-throughs and average unit retails because the company is taking fewer markdowns.
“We’re still in the very early innings,” Idol said of the repositioning, adding that the full-price channel comped positive in the most recent quarter. He said wholesale, which had lagged full-price stores, also showed an “incredible lift” last quarter and is showing similar trends this quarter.
Outlet Business and Back-Half Growth
Idol said the outlet business has been the weaker part of Michael Kors because it had not received enough new product innovation. New outlet product begins arriving more broadly in August, including three new icon groups, one of which, Sammy, has already landed and is “fast becoming the best-selling group inside the stores,” he said.
Capri has also reduced promotional activity and third-party sales as part of what Idol called “quality of sales initiatives.” He said the company walked away from about $150 million in sales tied to those initiatives, which management believes is better for the long-term health of the brand.
Reddien said unit growth is expected to decline in fiscal 2027 due to the quality-of-sales initiative, but he expects the company to return to unit growth in fiscal 2028 and beyond as new products resonate with customers.
Idol said the company expects growth in the back half of the fiscal year as the impact of quality-of-sales initiatives diminishes after being anniversaried in October and November. He also cited new product flow in handbags and footwear, higher marketing spend and social media initiatives as factors supporting the outlook.
Jimmy Choo Gains Momentum in Accessories
Idol said Jimmy Choo is already back to growth and is seeing strong momentum, especially in accessories. He said accessories are growing at a double-digit rate and described the category as “the hottest part of Jimmy Choo right now.”
The brand is selling products across a broad price architecture, including $5,000 Bonbon bags, the Cinch group priced between $2,000 and $2,500, and newer Bar and Curve groups priced under $1,500. Idol said the broader range has helped as luxury consumers become more selective.
Jimmy Choo is also expanding beyond its traditional image as a red carpet, wedding and special-occasion brand. Idol pointed to casual footwear, sneakers, jellies, loafers, kitten heels and block heels as areas that are resonating with younger consumers. He said casual footwear now accounts for more than 20% of Jimmy Choo’s business, with room to grow.
Reddien said Capri expects Jimmy Choo to return to profitability in fiscal 2027 and sees opportunities to expand margins through top-line growth, store productivity, gross margin improvement and SG&A leverage. He noted that about 50% of Jimmy Choo production is done in-house, creating opportunities to improve factory efficiency.
Margins, Stores and Capital Allocation
Reddien said gross margin expansion remains the largest opportunity for Michael Kors, driven by new products, higher full-price sell-throughs and higher average unit retails. He also cited production efficiencies, product engineering, improved store productivity and SG&A optimization as contributors to margin improvement.
Management also emphasized store renovations. Idol said the renovated Michael Kors store at Rockefeller Center is up almost 30% in sales. At Jimmy Choo, he said the renovated Madison Avenue store increased from $2.5 million to almost $6 million in trend over about 18 months.
Reddien said Capri’s capital allocation priorities are to invest in the business and return value to shareholders. The company has announced a $1 billion share repurchase program, with a significant portion expected to be completed this fiscal year. Idol added that Capri plans to spend $300 million, with most of that directed toward renovating the Michael Kors fleet, along with investments in IT and other areas.
Consumer Outlook Mixed by Region
Idol described consumers as “choiceful,” saying shoppers across income levels are being more thoughtful but are still buying when products offer design, quality and value. He said the North American consumer remains relatively healthy, despite pressures from higher costs for fuel, groceries and rent.
In Europe, Idol said Capri has become more cautious over the past 90 days, citing war-related effects on tourism and reduced Middle East tourist traffic. He said the company has substantial business with Middle East tourists at both Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo. Idol was more optimistic about China, where he said the consumer is beginning to improve, and said Japan has remained solid.
Looking ahead, Idol said Capri is at “the beginning of an inflection” for Michael Kors, though the turnaround will take time. He also said Jimmy Choo has the potential to reach $800 million in revenue, with $100 million of that growth expected to come from accessories.
About Capri NYSE: CPRI
Capri Holdings Limited NYSE: CPRI is a global luxury fashion company that designs, markets and distributes a range of premium lifestyle products. The company's principal brands—Michael Kors, Versace and Jimmy Choo—offer handbags, ready-to-wear apparel, footwear, watches, jewelry, fragrance and other accessories. Capri Holdings combines in-house design talent with international sourcing, manufacturing and retail operations to deliver collections that reflect each brand's distinct heritage and aesthetic vision.
Formed in 2018 through the rebranding of Michael Kors Holdings following the acquisition of Versace, Capri has since integrated Jimmy Choo into its portfolio.
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